Why dont you have it turned into a .41 Magnum.
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I am going with the 10 for a far better choice of boolits.
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It is putting out 3 in groups now, before the work. I personally (just a me thing) am not quite happy with that. I was in the process of load development (powders/bullets, specifically 196gr & 209gr sized @ .400, .401 & .402).
With the throats being so big, it will not help with accuracy (previous experience with multiple 45 colts). So I am thinking staying with the .403 throats, size bullets @ .403 & lap the barrel out to .401 1st. I am hoping this will bring the groups in tighter.
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Well, hopefully things will get buttoned up on the pistola soon, then I can start getting load & data….
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Yeah that sounds great , what exactly are ya doing with the revolver ? New cylinder ? .
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Wellll..long story, but ultimately having the .40 cylinder reamed to the 10mag. Should (hopefully) be in hand tomorrow. Been a long journey indeed.
I may end up sending it to Reeder Custom eventually for some extra work. Will see how it does for now.
*I should note good friend has sent his to Reeder for 10mag conversion with new cylinders that will have correct throat sizes. Extremely reasonable pricing also.
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It’s great to read how these less common idea’s are still kick’in, innovation should be kept alive even if it’s not the popular thing to do 
Post some pics when it is!
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Absolutely
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This looks nice.
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Oh that is Saaaaweet
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Yeah I wasn’t wanting one until AL had to post that 
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Thats a lot of bad assery there, and will fire 10mm auto too?
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I had the 40 cylinder used for the 10 mag, so the 10 auto cylinder is good to go. I can swap cylinders to shoot either one. (I should note friend has his @ Gary Reeder having a new 10mag cylinder being made, EXTREMELY reasonable pricing!). He will be able to shoot all 3, 40/10auto/10mag)
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That’s awesome, I had been down the 460 road much for those same reasons, I’d give that one a whirl too no doubt
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I should note: 206gr Hard cast over 18gr N105. I also tested with 17.7gr N105 with no real change, I believe the no difference is due to powder just isn’t being burned all the way. Will bump down to 17.3 for testing (see if it changes velocities).
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WOW, that’s a lot of bad assery right there!
Just in time to by the looks of Mexico
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I love my 460, Im making and running 300gr. Lee cast in a hardball/Lyman #2 type lead water quenched , and hand lubed with alox.
Now alot of people complain about alox but after it is applied if it is let to dry for 3 or 4 days it hardly has any stickiness to it and I can shoot alot with hardly any lead in the bore . I am running 40grain of H110
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I have never used N105, obviously a slow burning powder is it clean burning or dirty ?
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According to my knowledge, N105 is a slow-burning powder, which means it takes a bit longer to burn completely compared to faster-burning powders. However, I couldn’t find any information on whether it’s considered a “clean” or “dirty” burning powder.
In general, clean-burning powders are designed to produce less residue and fouling in the barrel, while dirty-burning powders can leave more residue and potentially cause issues with accuracy and barrel life.
But the exact characteristics of N105 would depend on its specific formulation and how it’s used in a particular load. Can you tell me more about the load you’re planning to use N105 in?
What’s the approximate powder charge and what’s the bullet weight?
Kilroy was here
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