AR-15 stuck firing pin

I took a rifle class with my suppressed AR-15, and now I can’t get the firing pin out of the BCG. I removed the firing pin retaining pin, but the firing pin itself won’t drop out. If I try to pull it out with my fingers, I get grittiness and stoppage. I’ve tried spinning it and oiling it, but no dice.

What should I do next?

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If the retaining pin is out completely, not broken in half itself then use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the firing pin, it should all but drop out,either way do what you need to, maybe time to replace with an LWRC, they are the best to my knowledge

https://www.lwrci.com/lwrci-di-bolt-carrier-group_p_37.html

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I ended up covering my pliers with a few layers of paper towel, and tugging on the firing pin. It came out a little further, but not quite all the way the first time so I pushed it back in and repeated about ten times before it finally came out. It was pretty crusty with carbon, and took a decent bit of work with my Avid scraping tool.

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That much buildup is sacrilege! Don’t take any more guns out then you are willing to strip, clean, and detail when you get home. A rule I hate, BTW.

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Are your gas rings shot?

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I’ve been using the gapless rings when I get around to replacing. Rings should last quite a while however if cared for. Test for standard rings is extend bolt to the full forward condition and stand BCG on front (Bolt) end. Carrier body should remain supported and not slide/ drop down. A test, BTW, the gapless rings fail even when brand new.

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I’m guessing overgassed and suppressed guns use them up a bit faster.

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I didn’t know those existed, how is it they fail when new?

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They fail the vertical collapse test. Extend the bolt, set BCG on bolt end, BCG collapses. They run fine though. Less friction then three piece setup I guess.
And you don’t have to time them.

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Separate the gaps?

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yessir, just like your chevy

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Wait. ?So there is only ONE ring used in the gapless state. ?How would you NOT expect it to crud up with a can.

I, like you, absolutely HATE cleaning guns. Back in Nam, with the original Mattie Mattel AR’s we had, the Marines, who were also taught to clean every chance they got, started having issues with the lower pin holes enlarging from all the disassembly/cleaning, causing the pins to sometime fall out on their own. Word then came down to NOT strip/disassemble nearly as often. So guys would just remove the bolt and clean that and the rest of the upper. But the cotter pin became the “fail” point, being easily lost out in the jungle. We finally decided God didn’t want us to be cleaning as much as the Marine Corps did. Still cleaned, just not as deeply.

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If a gapless ring has better seal, less blow by, maybe it wouldn’t crud up so fast. Don’t know. Haven’t seen any real suppressed testing comparisons.
On my setups, I haven’t seen any difference between gapless and the original style, (other then the test mentioned above) but none are overgassed or suppressed. Eventually the 300 BO will be sporting a can when I come up with an extra pile of money, maybe have a chance to compare then.

It would suck loosing small parts in the jungle before you had a chance to take an AK off a dead commie!

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No, gas rings are fine. The BCG will stand on the extended bolt without collapsing.

That would make sense. I was ejecting brass at about 1:30, and it’s not a flow-through can. I was using a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block on one of the bleed-off settings which vents excess gas out the front rather than blocking it off. A 500-round class might be punishing with my setup.

I’ve since adjusted the block to bleed off a couple clicks more gas, and now it’s ejecting brass at 2 o’clock when suppressed. I’ll try to get the ejection to 2:30.

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I like the bleed off idea, but have one and not sure I like the bleedoff direction. Like to see it bleed straight up instead of forward.

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I’m using bleed off because the manual says it doesn’t require regular cleaning like the restrictive settings do. I imagined that with a suppressor, carbon buildup would be more of an issue, and I didn’t want to clog up my gas block.

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If you are going to fire a lot of suppressed rounds get yerself a small ultrasonic cleaner. and NEVER and i repeat NEVER shoot Tul ammo or wolf steel through a suppressor. especially the silver bullet. that stuff is very dirty and the bullet will leave lead buildup in your suppressor like a 22 round will. If your suppressor has removable baffles then you can get the lead deposits out, it’s not easy either. lot of scraping. if they are not removable then you can’t. best to stick with good ammo and brass bullet on a suppressor. Also you might get some PB blaster, it mighta worked to get it unstuck easier.

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after ultrasonic cleaning





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Also these are lifesavers sometimes when needing to remove a stuck end cap

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I love the ultrasonic cleaner, great for the black powder revolvers. Nipples look like new.

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